Property:Development:Fields
Summary
- Brush cutting:
- needs a 50cc or better engine.
- And you need blades with 20+ chainsaw teeth. For example:
- But you really need is a service that can do a great job with a green climber or similar:
- Regrassing:
- Do it immediately.
- Rye/clover is for the budget concious.
- Bunnings sells bags of rye and clover
-
- “Low nutrient requirements” ←- hum…
- 90% perennial rye, 10% clover
- Deer:
- like both
- like clover (30% protein)
- like alfafa (30% protein)
- don't like fescue (low value)
- prefer: alfalfa,
- acorns, pecans, and hickory nuts are the foods that deer go crazy for, also like oak's acorns.
- will gladly chow down on sweetcorn and soybeans.
- horses:
- don't like clover
- Cows:
- don't like fescue (fescue likes shade and is sharp and low value)
-
- Herbicides:
- or cheaper:
- either combined with:
- For nettles, seems nothing kills them other than:
- Glyphosate
- Herbicide quantities:
- Associate 600W (ie MSM):
- In the SDS for Associate 600 WDG (granules) the density is given as 1.47 g/cm³:
- Barberry: 5g / 10L ⇒ 5ml per 12l. (wow. Way less than what I've been putting out there…which was closer to 30-50ml).
- Gorse: 5g / 10L + Pulse/superwetter
- So…rule of thumb…is 10ml per 10L. i.e. 0.1%.
- Grassmate:
- use 100ml per 10L (1%)
Start by reducing your herbicide use back to the intended label rate. For tall gorse and barberry, expect to need three initial passes to thin, then respray inner foliage and regrowth, and finally ensure root systems are shutting down. MSM only works through leaf absorption. Running on ground afterwards provides no benefits only harm. Grassmate primarily works through leaf absorption. But running on ground afterwards provides some but little benefit. MSM can last a year or so. WARNING: But Grassmate lasts longer. Tje triclopyr + picloram + aminopyralid lasts up to 3 years. And is mobile. Harming trees and streams down slope. Use with more caution!
Once the mature bushes are gone, switch into a maintenance phase — avoid Grassmate and MCM as it damages soil and mycelium. Walk the block twice a year, spot-spraying new seedlings with glyphosate. Glyphosate leaves no soil residue, so it won’t interfere with porcini-infected saplings, but care is needed to keep spray off their leaves and stems.